If you’re trying to start a travel blog, and family members ask for some recommendations for their upcoming trip to Los Angeles… OF COURSE, you oblige! Luckily, I was just there in the spring, so I definitely have some suggestions. When my husband mentioned he would be attending a conference in California, there was no question that he would have a stow-away! A weekend in sunny LA with no kids? Yes, please!
Home Base
The location was set — Scott’s meeting was at the LA Convention Center. So that immediately eliminated a big portion of my usual planning. DTLA (downtown LA) would be the home base for our fun in the sun. The area actually contains many diverse neighborhoods, each with its own personality and community. The Arts District, Little Tokyo, and the Staples Center are all part of the ongoing cultural renaissance happening in the area once only known for Skid Row. Ideal for exploring and soaking up some California culture!
Hotel Figueroa
I found the perfect place for us to stay for our weekend in LA. The Hotel Figueroa is only a few blocks from the convention center and offered a very competitive rate for DTLA (doubles from $329). The YWCA built the hotel in 1926 for single, female travelers, including hopeful Hollywood actresses. After a $60 million luxury revamp, the 14-story hotel reopened with 268 gorgeous rooms in early 2018. The decor recaptures the moody Spanish Colonialism of its original architecture with lush greenery, heavy light fixtures, plush chairs, and brass accents. We spent a lot of time people-watching in the gorgeous lobby — no wonder Travel + Leisure included it on their IT LIST as one of 2019’s best new hotels in the world.
The posh decor continued in our room with touches from the 1920s and included original works by local artists, most of them women in keeping with the hotel’s history. Although we had a smaller (“classic” ) room, we did not feel the least bit cramped. Our room had a great view of the coffin-shaped pool that hosts a very lively pool party on Sunday afternoons. In fact, the Official RuPaul DragCon Pool Party was held here this past Memorial Day!
📸 cred: hotelfigueroa.com 
Latin-inspired Food & Drink
The hotel is a trendy choice for both tourists and locals with two restaurants and three distinctive bars. Although we did not eat there, the large crowd at James Beard Award-nominated Casey Lane’s Basque-inspired Breva restaurant seemed to be enjoying the well-reviewed pintxos. The pool-side restaurant, Veranda, serves a Mexico-City-inspired menu with fabulous tequila and mezcal cocktails for sipping.
Our favorite spot was the afore-mentioned lobby — specifically the Bar Figueroa and the authentic Gintonicos. If you have spent any time on the blog, you may recall my penchant for gin. In addition to the amazing options, the bartender put on quite a show while creating the works of art! (One favorite included gin, pink peppercorn, lemongrass, and tonic.)
Arts in the Afternoon
Because of the time change between Texas and California, we did not have to leave at the crack of dawn for our weekend in LA and still made it to our hotel before noon, Pacific time. The lovely reception staff welcomed us like family, and we were very pleased that our room was ready! We did not linger, though, because we had much to explore.
After chatting with the front desk about our plans, they kindly offered to drop us at our first stop via the hotel shuttle. What a surprise when we walked outside to our driver and saw the sleek black Tesla waiting for us. The downside is that the car has only a one-mile radius from the hotel, but that worked for us on this particular trip!
Classic Books in LA
I love to discover new (to me) blogs when I am researching my trips. Josh at “California Through My Lens” had a great post listing “24 Things to Do in Downtown Los Angeles.” Just what I was looking for to guide us! Our first stop was at The Last Bookstore. Upon further reading, I found that Culture Trip calls it “one of the most magical bookstores in the country, if not the world.” And wow — it totally lived up to the hype! It is located in a beautiful old bank building built in 1914. Whether you are looking for vintage comic books, the latest bestselling fiction, or classic vinyl albums, you will probably find it here amongst the whimsical sculptures made of books.
A Break for Brats and Beer
From The Last Bookstore, it was about a 10-minute Uber ride to the Arts District. We were starving by this point, so the first place we saw was Wurstküche, which I, of course, had read about. It’s a sparsely-appointed beer hall that hails as a “purveyor of exotic grilled sausage.” Even though it was well past the lunchtime rush, there was quite a line at the counter. (A good sign!) This was fine because it gave us a chance to read through the menu and make some decisions.
Scott went with the classic bratwurst, but I decided to branch out and try the staff recommendation of buffalo with luxardo cherries and mint. Both were excellent, but the twice-fried Belgian fries were even more outstanding. The beer selection is extensive, and I found a great Steigl Grapefruit Radler. (For other non-beer-lovers, I have discovered a great option when visiting a beer hall or brewery! The Brits call them a “shandy” and the German term is “radler” for a crisp light beverage that is a mixture of beer and fruit soda or lemonade.)
Art for Sale… and on the Street
We then spent a couple of hours exploring the industrial area of former warehouses and factories that has been home to artist studios since the 1970s. Funky murals are prevalent, and artists’ lofts co-exist with trendy boutiques, restaurants, and galleries. One highlight was the LA outpost of Hauser and Wirth. The huge complex includes several shops where you can purchase unique jewelry, glassware, and art books, as well as pieces of fine art and reproductions. We happened to be there during an incredible Annie Liebowitz show of her personal archive, but the exhibits change regularly and are well worth checking out!
The Broad
Next on the weekend in LA agenda was the Broad Museum. After a 15-minute Uber, we arrived in front of what has been dubbed “the cheese grater.” Although tickets are free, they go FAST. (The onsite standby line for free general admission is available at the museum every day except Mondays when the museum is closed. Free general admission through the onsite standby line is first-come, first-served and based on availability.) We reserved our tickets online in advance, so we walked right in at our designated time. (But definitely do it in advance — tickets are made available on the first of each month for the following month.)
📸 cred: thebroad.org
I have to tell you that our visit to the Broad was one of the highlights of our weekend in LA. (And be sure to pronounce it with a long “o” , like “go” rather than the usual pronunciation of “broad”!) The museum is an incredible collection by influential artists founded by LA philanthropists Eli and Edythe Broad. Home to more than 2,000 works, it is one of the world’s leading compilations of postwar and contemporary art. We were truly in awe of the exhibits featuring in-depth holdings by artists such as Jean-Michel Basquiat, Keith Haring, Jeff Koons, Julie Mehretu, and Andy Warhol to name just a few.
Evening at Nightshade
After some downtime at the hotel and a wardrobe change (LA after all!), we headed back to the Arts District for dinner at Nightshade. (Reservations available on Resy.) Hidden along an alley in what used to be a loading dock, this relatively new restaurant is from Season 12 Top Chef winner, Mei Lin. (Lucky us, getting to dine with two Top Chef winners this year!) According to an interview with the chef on Resy, she told their blog that she’s “drawing from all the different cultures in one restaurant. It’s what I love eating and cooking: Korean influences, Chinese flavors, and very travel-inspired as well,” Lin says. “But ultimately, my biggest focus is to just have our guests feel at home, like they are in my home.”
The space conveys that homey vibe with emerald green velvet banquettes, blonde wood, beautiful lighting, and cascading plants. The kitchen is completely exposed to the diners, and it was a real treat to watch the chef orchestrating our meal.
Food is also Art!
We started with a couple of incredible vegetable dishes, which were honestly probably the highlights of the night! Crisp roasted sunchokes arrived in a puddle of spicy-sweet strawberry mole and a scattering of crunchy seeded granola. The bright (in both taste and actual color) jade green tomatoes with Persian cucumbers were crisp and tart.
roasted sunchokes, strawberry mole, seeded granola 
jade green tomatoes with Persian cucumbers
Almost every review I read highlighted the mapo tofu lasagna, and we saw it on most tables in the restaurant. Yes, it was highly innovative and cross-cultural. But honestly, it did not wow us.
We did enjoy the beef tartare immensely. The radish flowers created a very pretty presentation, and we really liked the Asian flavors. I love trying new flavor profiles, and I often find myself having to look up new (to me) ingredients. The tartare was dusted with kochukaru, which I have learned is also called gochugaru and is an essential ingredient in Korean cuisine. It is a coarsely ground red pepper that has a sweet, slightly smoky taste.
At our server’s recommendation, we finished our meal with the coconut mousse. It tasted very light and tropical. (And I also learned that the little Jello-type squares were nata de coco, which is a chewy, translucent, jelly-like food produced by the fermentation of coconut water.) What a perfect ending to our day in the Arts District, because it truly was a work of art!
Saturday Shopping like a Celeb
We slept in for a bit on day two of our weekend in LA and made our way towards the Beverly Hills/West Hollywood area. First on the agenda was to find some coffee and a bite to eat at The Original Farmers’ Market at Third and Fairfax. Welcoming visitors since 1934, this open-air marketplace is home to scores of mostly family-owned specialty stores and food stalls.
I always love to stop in Monsieur Marcel Gourmet Market to ooh and ah over the wonderful ingredients that are available, as well as beautiful pottery and linens. Although Bob’s Coffee and Doughnuts is an LA institution, we decided to try something a little more trendy at Waffleshot. An edible cup made out of waffle cone, coated in chocolate, and filled with a shot of espresso? YES, please! (And bonus — you can order your own online!)
The market is part of The Grove complex, an open-air mall that is lovely to walk through if you are interested in name-brand shopping. Its fashion-forward stores include everything from Madewell and Splendid to Nike and Topshop. There is a beautiful Nordstroms where I could not resist buying a cute pair of platform sandals! And don’t miss the revolving pop-up shops featuring many of today’s trendiest designers.
Strolling to West Hollywood
We decided that since it was a perfect sunshiny day in LA, that we would walk to our lunch reservation a couple of miles away in West Hollywood. We strolled along Third Street past blocks and blocks of cool cafes, cute shops, and lots of Instagrammable street art. Nothing particularly exceptional, but it was a lovely walk with plenty to keep us entertained along the way.
In my opinion, no weekend in sunny LA is complete without at least one meal at a super-hyped restaurant where you will most likely glimpse a Hollywood star! Sadly for us, we did not see anyone famous, but our lunch at The Ivy was definitely a highlight for me. It is such a lovely location, and who doesn’t mind waiting for a table when free champagne is served?
The food was delicious, but nothing really off-the-charts. And truthfully, even by LA standards, it was over-the-top expensive for lunch. But have I mentioned the absolutely charming decor and impeccable service? And the fabulous potential to spot a celebrity? I would go back in a heartbeat, but probably with girlfriends rather than the husband who did not whole-heartedly share my enthusiasm!
Continuing north on Robertson from The Ivy, we passed many many beautiful boutiques. My sweet husband tagged along without a complaint as we checked out everything from designer furniture to Stella McCartney’s LA shop around the corner on Beverly Blvd. From there, I would have liked to continue walking and eventually turn east on Melrose for more retail therapy. However, we had made a promise to our high school senior to make a trip to the Supreme store. Although it’s certainly not my style, we had fun (as strange as it may sound) waiting in line and then purchasing him an over-priced t-shirt!
Continuing our Gourmet Weekend in LA
I planned our Saturday evening agenda with more celebrity-sighting potential in mind. We have always been a fan of chef José Andrés since his (and our) early days at Jaleo in Washington, DC. His LA outpost is The Bazaar in the super-chic SLS Beverly Hills Hotel, and we were excited to peruse his incredible tapas menu once again. Full disclosure time: Although I had been toying with the idea of blogging for quite some time, I had not made the decision when we were in LA. So even though I am about to show you some amazing pictures of our meal, unfortunately, I cannot match most of these to current menu options. So just know that all of the food was spectacular in both presentation and taste!
Paparazzi!
After dinner, we followed the suggestion of our very in-the-know nephew who attends USC. A short ride away, we made our way towards a top celebrity hang out, Catch LA. We had our doubts if we would be able to actually get past the bouncers at what Eater LA called “The Coolest Damn Rooftop in West Hollywood,” but we were willing to try! (Who has even heard of a bouncer at a restaurant?)
Indeed, as we drove up, the paparazzi were there in full force, although there seemed to be a break in any action. I was completely thrilled when the very handsome young men at the desk whisked us right in and directed us toward the elevator. The lush surroundings immediately caught our eye, as did all of the people lined up along the entry taking selfies! It was like a dang catwalk during fashion week! As we made our way towards the hostess stand, our confidence wavered. This was definitely the land of young and ultra-hip. But again, the absolutely stunning hostesses were lovely and took our names and handed us one of those vibrating coasters. (Which was kind of weird because that seemed more like Chili’s than a posh Hollywood venue!)
Maybe Not Quite as Hip as We Thought…
To make a very long story (i.e. wait), short, our luck pretty much ended there. We fought our way to the bar to order our $20 cocktails (which I have to say were quite good) and spent the next couple of hours talking with various new friends. There was the group of German businessmen spending the weekend in LA that did not understand why they did not get one of the buzzers. The college students who must have had really great fake IDS were darling while pointing out a couple of social media stars to us. There was also a rap star complete with entourage.
We especially enjoyed the interesting couple who were out on their first date since their baby had been born. She was a writer, and he did something on the production side of things. He shook hands with several agents and talked with a handsome guy who is a regular on the TV show Atlanta. They were nervous about the length of time they had been out, and that their babysitter would have to leave soon. Shortly thereafter, our buzzer finally went off! We promptly handed it to our new friends without hesitation, told them to enjoy themselves, and headed back to our hotel after a wonderful evening!
Fun in the Sun(day)
We got an even slower start on Sunday, but hey… remember, no kids for our weekend in chi-chi LA! It was another beautiful day, and we were excited to spend our day on the coast. It would have probably been nice to have had a car this day, but honestly other than that, we did not miss having a rental during our trip. After a 45-minute Uber ride, we made it to free-spirited Venice Beach.
We were meeting our nephew at Gjelina, a highly-rated restaurant known for its seasonal, wood-fired California cuisine. We loved the casual vibe and interesting clientele. And the food was also outstanding! Make your reservations on Resy, and do not miss the lemon buckwheat ricotta pancakes or the duck confit potato hash! YUM!
The restaurant is situated on one end of Abbott Kinney, which GQ Magazine once called “the coolest block in America!” Named after Venice Beach’s founder, the boulevard is a shopper’s paradise with eclectic shops offering everything from surfboards to modern designers to vintage everything! From there, it is only a 15-minute walk to the world-famous Venice Beach Boardwalk.
Can’t Miss the Beach on a Weekend in Sunny LA!
Truly one of the best places in LA for people watching, you do not want to miss this concrete walkway that stretches along the Pacific. We did not have the time on this outing, but on previous trips, we have easily walked to the Santa Monica Pier from Venice Beach. (It’s about 2 miles.) It is always fun to gawk at the bodybuilders lifting weights at Muscle Beach and see the amazing athleticism of the guys playing pick-up basketball. Yes, it’s super tacky and touristy. But if the street performers and pushy vendors bother you, just make your way toward the water. Watching the surfers and sitting in the warm sun is a perfect Sunday afternoon in my book!
And… Another Celebrity Chef
For dinner Sunday evening, we had nabbed reservations at Majordomo, named one of Eater’s best new restaurants of 2018. We are huge fans of chef David Chang of the Momofuko restaurant empire and Netflix’s Ugly Delicious, so we were looking forward to an amazing dinner. Our driver had a tough time finding the place which is just north of Chinatown in a maze of renovated warehouses, but after heading down the alley, we rounded the corner to spy the neon peach. (“Momofuku” means “lucky peach” in Japanese.) The space is undeniably industrial chic, with a massive interior and a gorgeous exterior patio. Our servers were attentive and friendly, guiding us through the exciting menu.
As I mentioned before, I was not yet in complete blogger mode on this trip, so I do not have a perfect description of all of our dishes. We started with the Bing, the kitchen’s equivalent to the bun on a pork bun, but more like a pancake… It is served with bowls of yumminess that you can spoon into the pillowy flatbread. We tried the Egg with Smoked Roe and the Spicy Lamb.
The presentation is on point at Majodomo. Our next dish was the sliced Kanpachi, a Hawaiian member of the amberjack family. It was deliciously silky and the eyedropper filled w/ tomato conji added a major jolt of umami flavor and a bit of whimsy. (Another thing I had to look up: Conji is made in-house by the Momofuku Culinary Lab and is a fermented, cold-pressed liquid seasoning similar to soy sauce or tamari. You can try it yourself by ordering here.)
Discovering New Favorites
The Fried Oxtail with Salsa Seca, Chili, and Peanuts was possibly my favorite dish of the night and introduced me to a new favorite. Salsa Seca is what is known as a “dry” salsa — a mixture of dried chilies, various seeds and nuts, other seasonings, and a touch of oil to hold it all together. I could not get enough of the symphony of textures in my mouth. Unfortunately, I have yet to recreate this at home and must resist the urge to search right now for recipes. (I need to finish this post first!)
Here’s where it gets a little fuzzy. I’m almost positive (after scouring the internet for pics of March 2019 menus) that our next dish was Roasted Duck Crispy Rice. There were definitely table-side preparations, and the result was beyond outstanding. I wish I could remember more details… but doesn’t it look amazing? I need to figure out how to make crispy rice at home — stay tuned for that as well!
By this point, we were pleasingly stuffed and had decided to pass on dessert. Until we saw what the couple next to us were having. Upon their rave reviews, we had to try the Kakigori: a mountain of meringue enclosing coffee-flavored shaved ice and a mound of rice pudding at the bottom. We probably should have stuck to our original plan, but it was definitely a fun dish with great Instagrammability!
Back to Reality… Leaving LA
Monday morning arrived, and our weekend in LA was coming to a close. Scott headed to his conference, and I had one more spot I wanted to hit: Grand Central Market. Built in 1917, it is a landmark in downtown LA filled with tasty food stalls and retail outlets. According to their website, the market’s mission is “to celebrate the cuisines and cultures of Los Angeles.”
It was difficult making a choice for breakfast! I finally decided to try Eggslut to see if it would live up to all of the hype. I was lucky — I heard that the lines at the market were horrible, but around 9:00 am on a Monday morning, it was totally fine! The biggest decision was whether to get the famous bacon, egg, and cheese sandwich or maybe the Fairfax: cage-free soft scrambled eggs and chives, cheddar cheese, caramelized onions and sriracha mayo in a warm brioche bun… I chose the namesake dish. The Eggslut is a cage-free coddled egg on top of a smooth potato purée, poached in a glass jar, topped with gray salt and chives, served with slices of baguette. I loved the presentation, and when I grabbed a seat at the counter, I especially enjoyed watching the almost assembly-line production of all the amazing food.
On my way out of the market, PBJ.LA caught my eye. I am a sucker for peanut butter, so I grabbed a few sandwiches for the trip home. I chose the Redeye for me (espresso peanut butter and dark chocolate raspberry jam), a Chocolate Haze (chocolate hazelnut butter and dark cherry chianti jam), and an Elvis (peanut butter, banana jam, and bacon). Yep, put those babies in my carry on, and that’s what the kids and I had for supper!
